First Look: St. Lawrence

St. Lawrence has come in to 219 N. Peters to replace the Harbor, a bar/burger joint that suffered from a bit of an identity crisis and prices levels that were too high for the food. Despite my close proximity to St. Lawrence, my first exposure to it was through The Pop Shop (by the Alchemy Lounge), a pop up cocktail bar specializing in carbonated cocktails. In spite of the overwhelming number of hipsters, the cocktails were awesome and I found the decor of St. Lawrence to be very well done. While not much of a change from the Harbor’s decor, enough was done to make the space feel more upscale and inviting. Unfortunately that was about the extent of the positives for St. Lawrence to date.

On our lunch run, we went with the cheese burger and a turducken burger. Much to our dismay, there was about an hour lag time between ordering our food and having it reach the table. While the wait would have been more tolerable if you’re having a few drinks on a Saturday or with dinner, it was painful for a workday lunch. Unfortunately, when our food arrived it became quickly apparent that our burgers had all been cooking the entire time we waited. The burger was completely charred on the outside, the meat flavorless and so dry bits crumbled off when you bit into it. Aside from the turducken’s green apple remoulade, it was entirely indistinguishable from the regular burger. Unfortunately, the remoulade was a soupy mess. The house cut fries that came with the burgers were a high point, the dirty rice (also soupy) which accompanied the turducken burger was not.

Surprisingly, St. Lawrence seems intent on repeating the Harbor’s pricing errors. The cheese burger and the turducken burger each came in at $13. The addition of bacon to the burger would have been another $2. While a bit of a bump is sure to exist for the French Quarter location, you still need to be competitive with those around you. Yo Mama’s fanciest burgers come in at $10.50, Dickie Brennan’s steakhouse lunch bacon burger comes in at $9.50 and Cafe Adelaide’s bacon cheese burger is $14. Not only are each of these burgers cheaper than their St. Lawrence counterpart, each is also significantly better.

St. Lawrence does get credit for the great music and what appears to be a nice bar set up, but for now I can’t say much for the food.

Quick Hit: Killer Poboys

There’s been a whole lot of hoopla surrounding the openings of Restaurant R’evolution and SoBou. So much so, that the opening of another nearby eatery has gone mostly unnoticed. Chefs Cam Boudreaux and April Bellow have set up Killer Poboys in the back of the Erin Rose (over on Conti) to serve up new takes on the traditional New Orleans sandwich. The heart of the menu is five po-boys, a Jameson grilled cheese sandwich and two salads, specials abound as the mood (and market) dictates. While the food coming out of the kitchen is definitely killer, they only vaguely resemble the po-boys found all over town. In fact, they’re probably a closer relative to Banh Mi than sloppy roast beef or fried shrimp po-boy you’re used to.

We’ve pretty much plowed through the entire menu and have yet to settle on a favorite. If pushed, I’d say the NOLA Rum & Chipotle Braised Pork (with summer veggie Chow Chow and garlic aioli) or the Moroccan Spiced Lamb Sausage (with Tzatziki sauce, sumac carrot relish and torn mint) would be 1a and 1b, while the Coriander Lime Gulf Shrimp (with marinated Daikon and carrot, cucumbers, herbs and the house special aioli) would be my close 2. For those of you cutting down on (or out) the meat, a Curry Roasted Seasonal Veggies and the Creole Tomato and Caper Basil Pesto round out the rest of the po-boys. The two salads are light and refreshing and, at a mere $2 or $4, hard to resist grouping with a po-boy.

One gripe I have about French Quarter eating is that the prices have been adjusted for that tourist “discount.” That and the good places are seriously outweighed by the bad. Killer Poboys doesn’t fall victim to either of these issues. The po-boys are $7 for the veggies, $8 for the pork and $9 for the shrimp or lamb. That’s pretty good for quality eating in the French Quarter, hell a foot long turkey from the Subway on N. Peters will run you just under $7.

Killer Poboys is currently open in the back of the Erin Rose on Wednesday through Saturday from noon to 10pm and Sunday from noon to 5pm. It is cash only.

Opening Today: City Greens

Now that football season is (pretty much) over and there is a slight lag before Mardi Gras kicks in, many people around town will try to get to those resolutions to eat healthier and lose weight they made a few weeks ago. Today, City Greens in the 909 Poydras building (the First Bank and Trust Building), joining a bevy of recent restaurant openings in the area and makes meeting those goals a bit easier. According to the press release:

Most of the lettuce served at City Greens comes from a hydroponics farm located in Florida, which is owned and operated by Kazenmaier [one of the co-owners].
“By growing our own lettuce, we’re offering a higher quality of organic greens to customers,” says Kazenmaier, Co-Founder. “We’re able to maintain a consistent high standard of product throughout the year instead of the ups and downs related to seasonal growing conditions. City Greens only serves the freshest ingredients. If there are products that do not meet our standard of freshness then they will not be served to customers.”

If City Greens can stick to their promise to provide nothing but the freshest greens, I think it will be a welcome addition to downtown dining. City Greens derives its name not just from the salads they serve, but also their approach to eco-friendly operations.

City Greens uses Eco-products, which makes serving containers, utensils and cups made of recycled materials. All salads, soups and wraps are served in these eco-friendly to-go containers. “We made a conscious decision to supply eco-friendly products in an effort to reduce our carbon footprint,” Birtel [the other co-owner] says. “Not only do we want to create better lifestyles for New Orleanians, we want to encourage a healthier environment as well.”

To really capitalize on the eco-movement and helping New Orleans, I’d love to see them move that hydroponic farm into the metro area and outside of Florida.

City Greens is open Monday through Friday from 7:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. and will offer light breakfast to go with the salad/soup menu.

If anyone gets a chance to check it out before we do, please let us know what you think in the comments

Travel Eats: Philly’s Famous Fourth Street Deli

New Orleans has a lot of great food, but we’ve definitely got a shortage of kick ass delis. Sure we’ve got Stein’s, which carries all kinds of cool stuff, but that is about it. The Northeast, on the other hand, has an overabundance of delis. On a recent trip to the Philly area, we stopped in at the Famous Fourth Street Deli for a bite to eat. The food was absolutely fantastic, with one major drawback: flying home in the afternoon meant we couldn’t bring our leftovers with us!

One of the great treats of being at 4th Street is watching all the food come out of the kitchen. Plate after plate after plate of monstrously large sandwiches will zip past until one finally lands at your place. At that moment, you are sent into a rare eater’s fight or flight moment. Do you stay and likely fail to conquer the plate in front of you or do you bolt for the door? If you’re brave enough to stay, your next problem is figuring out how a snake unhinges its jaw so you can get the darn thing in your mouth! If you’ve got an afternoon to kill and haven’t eaten in about a week, 4th Street is a must.

For scale, that stack of four plates and a bowl reach about the middle level of the sandwich

I think there is a whole head of lettuce on there

What maybe the world's largest matzo ball!

 

The less intimidating, but still massive turkey sandwich

Quick Hit: The Company Burger

Not too long ago we wrote about The Company Burger’s opening on Freret Street. Eager as we were to check it out, things simply weren’t lining up for us to make it out there. Good news is, it was worth the wait.

For a lazy pre-holiday Friday, The Company Burger was packed. Standing room only packed. I was a bit worried about lunch taking too long and having trouble finding a place to eat, but both things seemed to work out. For only being open a short amount of time, the kitchen was rocking and rolling and flying through the orders. Seating was a slightly different issue, as it seems a bit sparse for the massive space and the size of the crowds. The standing bar top helped a bit, but if The Company Burger keeps pulling the lunch crowd I saw they’ll want to add in some more space to eat.

Now for the food. The Company Burger is all about the burger and they do a pretty darn good job. The single is big enough to fill you up with a side, whereas the double can do the job if you don’t feel like having any veggies (even if they are fried). Dressed at The Company Burger doesn’t include mayo, because they take great pride in their homemade mayo bar, which featured eight different mayos on our visit (including a bacon mayo).

Like all good burger joints, the sides are worth the trip on their own. The onion rings are fantastic, though a little bit more breading would be make them just about unbeatable in my book. What sets these onion rings apart from any other is the use of red onion. While my favorite side, it wasn’t the one that drew the most praise. That was the sweet potato fries. It even drew an excited utterance (803 Exception!) of “these are the best sweet potato fries I’ve ever had.” Of course, if you’re going to taste one thing aside from the burger, it should be the pork belly corndog. A Hogs for the Cause award winning dish, the pork belly corndog has been described as “life altering.” While we got to a decent portion of the menu, there is still so much more to go. And that gets me excited.

Distilleries are on their way to New Orleans

Todd Price from the Times-Pic broke this story last week, but it appeared to just go almost unnoticed, even by us! So I figured news this big bears repeating or even shouting from the rooftops. We’re getting a new distillery (Old New Orleans Rum is currently distilled over on a part of Frenchman you never knew existed, across from what looks like to be a concrete plant). One of the really important parts of the story isn’t even in the story, but found in a place many people don’t dare to venture, the Nola.com comments. Typically a bastion for neither nice nor typically well informed things, Todd used the comment section to update his story to inform us that not one, but two distilleries are on their way here! I’ve yet to track down anything on the second distillery, but I’m working on it. I haven’t seen anything new out of Todd, but when I do I’ll pass that around here too.

As far as the first distillery (the one we know about), Ian Nygren is opening Soc Au Lait (sack of milk) Distillerie at 301 N. Claiborne, or at least he is as soon as the city lets him put a distillery in a commercial neighborhood. From the Distillerie’s twitter feed it looks like things are going as planned and they’ll actually be allowed to move forward. Started in the late fall of 2009, it looks like New Orleans have locally produced Vodka on the shelf in early 2012.

Soc Au Lait plans to make two products when up and running. Voo Doo Vodka, which will be a corn based vodka that is distilled 5 times. Unsure of vodka made from corn? Another small distillery that has been winning fans over left and right uses corn, Tito’s out of Austin. In addition to the unflavored vodka, Soc Au Lait is jumping full on to the current sweet tea flavored vodka craze with a grain mash vodka base, also distilled 5 times.

Voo Doo Vodka Seersucker Sweet Tea

Itching to track each of these products on Facebook? Voo Doo Vodka has its page here, and Seersucker is here.

New Opening: The Company Burger

If you’re tired of the Freret Street pieces in your local media, I’ve got some bad news for you.  I don’t think they’re going to slow down any time soon.  It seems like as soon as one restaurant finishes its grand opening, festivities for the next new restaurant start up. This week’s opening is the Company Burger at 4600 Freret Street, started by local boy Adam Biderman.  If you don’t happen to know Adam from his school boy days, you may be more familiar with his work at the 2011 Hogs for the Cause.  Adam and the Company Burger Team took 1st place overall in the Porkpourri category.

The first full day for the Company Burger is going to be Wednesday August 17th, but the buzz from the Sunday and Monday soft openings have been pretty stellar.  At Sunday’s industry night, the praise was not only high, but it came from some people who know a thing or two about food.  Chef Tariq Hannah (of Sucre) gushed about the burger, the Taceaux Loceaux folks were digging the pork belly corn dog, while others raved on the onion rings.

Hey, don’t want to believe them?  Good, check out the menu and see for yourself starting Wednesday at 11:00 a.m.!

Around Town: Fight Crime With a Fork

Today’s activity is pretty simple (although sorry for the late notice). Go out to eat dinner at one of twenty restaurants and help fight crime. Not a bad deal. And, unlike many charitable eating events, this one has participating restaurants for all budgets. You a high rolling fancy pants? Do your crime fighting at Restaurant August or Commander’s Palace. Not quite to that level? Zea’s and Acme Oyster House are there for you. Just a struggling college student, been decimated by the recent stock market shenanigans or watching the return of football to National TV (Seattle at San Diego at 7:00 pm on ESPN)? Bruno’s can meet your needs, just be sure to be nice to the bartenders.

For a list of all participating restaurants, click here. To look into what you’re money will be going to, check out the New Orleans Police and Justice Foundation here. Want to see something bizarre and amazing, click here (don’t worry, it is SFW).

Eat Safe Goes Live (probably)

Pick a restaurant in New Orleans, any restaurant. It is likely that pictures and, most likely, a review can be found within minutes. You’re able to get a feel for the decor, ambiance and food before you step in the door. But in most cases, your world view in limited to the dining room and bar. You may catch a glimpse of the kitchen as a server burst forth with someone’s food, the swinging door providing an oscillating view behind the scenes, but you’ll never really know what’s going on back there.

“You really don’t want to know what goes on in there.” Is definitely a line I’ve heard from a number of friends who have worked in some not-so-fine dining establishments. We’ve all heard countless horror stories, half-truths and urban legends from the finger in the chili to the super long black hair we found in our salsa this past week, but we still don’t know much about the state of the kitchen in the places where we eat. That’s all about to change, hopefully.

Before today, if you wanted to get a look at the grade for, say, Commander’s Palace, you’d have to go down to the local Sanatarian Services office and pay $0.25 a page to see the report. With the inspection reports being virtually inaccessible by the public, what incentive would a restaurant have to quickly address the issue? Under our current system, fines can’t kick in for months. And the public can’t vote with its wallet, because it is likely to never know of any violations. But that all changes this afternoon, as the Department of Health and Hospitals is attempting to roll out and online database of all restaurant inspections and grades called “Eat Safe.” (Edit: this software apparently hates a link that doesn’t exist. The web address when it goes live is http://www.eatsafe.la.gov) While we won’t have access to the full reports, a summary of a restaurant’s last three inspections and violations will be available.

Of course, we’ll have to see if the DHH can actually pull this off. Judging by their track record, I’m more than a little skeptical. DHH promised us an online system in 2005. After delays in launching, the system was overloaded the week it was unveiled and crapped out. Since then, numerous attempts at getting a system up and running have failed. We’ve been promised these issues have all been resolved. If Eat Safe does survive, it will be a welcome resource.

The Curious Case of Juicy Lucy’s

Juicy Lucy’s on Carrollton is the most recent addition to the exploding hamburger scene in New Orleans. As the name implies, their focus is on Juicy Lucys, which are burgers stuffed with cheese and other things (cheddar cheese and bacon, pepper jack cheese and jalapenos, etc., etc.). While the Juicy Lucys are the main event, the menu also has non-stuffed burgers, a few cheese boards (plates), and some satay/meat-on-a-stick dishes and a few sides.

As far as burgers go, Juicy Lucys may present a bit of a problem for some of you, particularly for purists (some have called the stuffed burgers, “meatloaf”). In order to get the center of your burger hot and melty, you’re getting a pretty well done burger. While this is unfortunate, it also is a rather common occurrence for burgers around town. What makes this a bigger issue for me is that I didn’t really see where stuffing the burger versus simply topping the burger made a damn bit of difference. I mean anything that is tasty on the inside will be tasty on top and vice versa. The one difference made possible by using the stuffing method is it allows Juicy Lucy’s to take the cheese from melted to molten.

If you can get past the purity arguments for the stuffed burgers, you’ll find that you’re in for a pretty tasty meal. This is particularly the case when you pair it with the kick-ass onion rings, which have been Juicy Lucy’s most talked about item. While the fries or sweet potato fries were tempting, I love onion rings and they do them really well here.

We sat at the bar and service was great. Attentive, friendly and informative, the bartender helped us through the menu, had suggestions and provided an honest opinion when asked.

With a casual, but nice, decor and the burger-laden menu, Juicy Lucy’s is a nice little neighborhood burger joint. Right? Not from what we’ve been told. Look closely at the logo, see what Jessica Rabbit is clutching in her hand? Yup, a glass of wine. We’ve been told that Juicy Lucy’s wants to be a wine and cheese bar that happens to serve burgers. Currently they have about 35 different red wines and about 40 or so different whites. Over the coming months, if things go as planned we’ll be looking at 150 different reds and 100 or so white wines. Which sounds great. I mean, we like wine and we like cheese and we like being able to walk home, so what’s the problem?

I think the problem is, I’m confused. Everything about Juicy Lucy’s screams “quick burger stop.” Nothing, save the wine rack/room I didn’t notice when I walked in, says wine bar. Maybe the execution of this transformation from burger joint to wine and cheese bar will be seamless. Maybe I’m not thinking out the box enough to see the vision clearly. Maybe my standard coupling of beer and burgers isn’t sophisticated enough to “get it.” Or maybe a little bit of all that, and then some.

For now, I’ll take Juicy Lucy’s for what it is, a decent place to grab a burger (and some onion rings) and call it a day.